Peter Do; designer portrait and SS21 review
Since the coronavirus outbreak, there has been a question hanging in the air. How are the young emerging designers going to be hit by this pandemic? One to not stray away from his bright path is the Vietnamese/American designer Peter Do, who’s name has been on everybody’s lips since he showed his fall 2020 collection in New York, earlier in March this year.
Peter Do was the winner of the 2014 LVMH Graduates Prize. The prize given by fashion conglomerate LVMH, who owns brands such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Moët, is open to students studying design at fashion schools. The price is a 100 000 euros grant and an opportunity to work as part of the design team at an LVMH brand for one year. After Do won he started working under Phoebe Philo at Céline, which is visible in his collection as they seem to have similar opinions and philosophies about what fashion should be.
Peter Do is an interesting designer. Similar to the legendary Belgian designer Martin Margiela, his mysterious persona has led to curiosity for his label. He dislikes to show his face and the only way for the public to recognize him is by his tattoo, a line stretching from his left ear down to his hand, which to me is the definition of a designer signature. Do also likes to incorporate his tattoo into his designs. The tattoo was seen as a juxtaposing colored line on turtleneck sweaters in his fall 2020 collection.
The line was also prevalent in his spring summer 2021 collection, for example in look 7 where it was placed on the sleeve of a shirt. This type of design signature is a smart move to establish your brand as people tend to notice that it’s your design due to the signature.
Do’s design process and aesthetic is very distinct. He has in past interviews said that he is obsessed with menswear, particularly the tailoring and structure of menswear garments. What he does is that he takes very feminine garments and adds menswear details such as sharp shoulders or visible hems. Another reason for his obsession with menswear is the fact that men buy clothes more seldom than women and do not usually buy into trends as much as women do. The philosophy of simplifying fashion permeates the brand’s DNA, because there is a big focus on utility and wearability. Although wearable and utilitarian, Peter Do’s designs are not easy. They are made with an extremely high level of craftsmanship and complicated constructions and there is always a thought behind every design detail. For example, there are skirts and dresses that have pockets which you wouldn’t expect, because of the materials they’re made of.
Fall/Winter 2020
Another example of unique functional design is the fact that Peter, while studying at the Fashion Institute Of Technology, developed his own fabric called Spacer. Do has said that he took a cotton cloth material used a lot in aviation and construction working and then made it thinner to be more suitable for clothing. The material is similar to organza except it’s more stiff and doesn’t wrinkle, which organza is infamous for. That’s another very good example of how Do makes wearable and utilitarian clothes while still having an extremely high standard of innovation and quality.
Fall/Winter 2020, skirt and pants made of the spacer fabric
Now, let’s discuss the spring/summer 2021 collection. The collection fits right with the time we live in. His signature knitwear matched with loosely fitted pants make perfect outfits during a quarantine.
We also see the knitwear deconstructed to make cardigans and sleeveless turtlenecks which showcases the brand’s utilitarian aspect. The knitwear also helps him establish his brand, because it has become a signature piece, which as previously stated, is a key to make people recognize you and your trademark.
While sticking to his signature knitwear he added new styling options to it, such as skirts with pockets made of faux crocodile embossed leather.
Maybe not the most revolutionary design idea we’ve seen from Do, but the effortless shirt dresses are a smart business move as the demand for ease has grown during the pandemic and they’re styled nicely with chunky leather boots.
The deconstructed blazers feel slightly too rough.
Instead I wish he would’ve done the very well tailored blazer like the one from look 5, which would’ve made the collection more cohesive. I understand the flexibility of the design, but the styling is too much in my opinion.
In look 34 there’s also a bold piece, however the styling is much more refined as the extravagant shearling patchwork coat gets to shine on its own since it’s paired with a black cardigan in his spacer fabric and a black leather pant.
Look 18 is the one look that I think sets the tone for the collection as a whole. It’s the classic knitwear silhouette from Do in a taupe color with a matching slit skirt and thigh high boots. A monochromatic look that’s practical and comfortable yet it still catches the attention of the eye, since it has both a mixture of materials and a statement piece; the boots.
It was a beautiful collection, helping Do to establish his brand and keeping the buzz around it alive. Hopefully, we’ll see him developing his trademark pieces further as the brand grows.